En titt på olika Lilongs med SEA

Torsdag morgon hade jag bokat upp både Pirkko, Hans och mig själv på en guidad tur med SEA till en del av Shanghais Lilongs. Vår guide hette Fanny Hoffman-Loss och var en tysk arkitekt som bott i Kina en stor del av sitt liv. En mycket kunnig och duktig guide!
Vi skulle samlas i Okura Garden Hotel's lobby kl 10.
På vägen dit gick vi Taixing Lu, så jag fick visa Pirkko o Hans ett av våra närliggande Lilongs.
Fanny började med att berätta om området där Okura Garden Hotel ligger och byggnadernas historia.
Detta var i början ett tyskt rekreationsområde i den franska concessionen. När Tyskland och Frankrike gick i krig med varandra 1914, körde fransmännen bort tyskarna från området. Då revs också den tyskinspirerade byggnaden och fransmännen byggde en pampig byggnad i sin egen stil. Fanny visade en bild på hur det såg ut förr.
Det nedersta bilden är ett foto på hur den tyska byggnaden såg ut. Den översta bilden visar hur det nybyggda franska huset såg ut 1914.
Så här ser det ut idag, när de dessutom har byggt till lite extra rum på höjden. Fast....fronten är densamma.
Trädgården är sig mer eller mindre lik sedan denna tiden, enligt Fanny.
Vi började vår vandring med att gå söderut på Maoming Lu. I korsningen med Nanchang Lu såg vi denna vackra damen.
För ett antal år sedan blev statyn stulen av, vad det visade sig, tjuvar som enbart var ute efter värdet på metallen. Statyn ersattes då med en något moderniserad upplaga.
Tekniken går framåt!
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Väl inne på Nanchang Lu kom vi in i dagens första Lilong.
Hon förklarade var namnet Lilong kom ifrån.
Li har 3 olika betydelser (minst....) det betyder 500m och ett Lilong kvarter är ofta ca 500m långt.
Li betyder också 50 till 200 familjer och det är så många familjer som brukar bo i en Lilong.
Li betyder dessutom "inne" som visar på att man bor inne i kvarteret och gemenskapen.
Long betyder gränd, så det behöver väl inte någon vidare förklaring.
Det finns många olika sorters Lilongs, villor, höghus eller de vanligare 2 eller 3 våningshus, fast de har en gemensam nämnare. Ingången ligger i söder och man kommer in direkt i vardagsrummet. Kök och badrum ligger på norrsidan och sovrum oftast på övervåningen.
Hur många man bor per kvadratmeter har skiftat mycket över åren, men är man nyfiken på hur många familjer det bor i ett hus kan man alltid titta på hur många brevlådor det sitter vid dörren.
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Vår vandring gick vidare till Yongkang Lu. Denna gatan har jag helt missat innan. En mycket trevlig gata med många små restauranger.
Här finns dessutom en Lilong med ett litet museum. Det är en man som har gjort om sin lägenhet till ett Shikumen museum. Bara öppet på lördagar, men det är verkligen värt ett besök enligt Fanny. Ett mycket personligt museum. Det var för övrigt en mycket trevlig Lilong.
Härifrån följde vi Yongjia Lu österut mot ett kulturcenter som tidigare var en blomstermarknad. (Yongjia Lu/Shaanxi Lu)
Här finns som sagt förnärvarande ett relativt nybyggt kulturcentrum. I början på 1900-talet var det emellertid en kapplöpningsbana för hundar. Vi gick vidare till Ruijin Hotel där grundaren till denna kapplöpningsbana bodde på den tiden.
Jag har aldrig varit inne i denna hotellträdgården förut. Den var verkligen något utöver det vanliga här i Shanghai. Under Mao Tse Tungs tid användes hotellet som gästhus till många betydelsefulla internationella gäster. Fanny rekommenderade hotellet. Varför inte? Ett anrikt hotell i lugn miljö och med ett perfekt läge.
Vi hann med en Lilong till innan vi avslutade i det nyrenoverade Lilongområdet Sinan Mansion.
I denna Lilong hade de byggt på en extra våning på alla husen.
Sinan Mansion är precis som Xintiandi ett Lilongområde som har gjorts om till ett restaurangområde.
Det var perfekt att avsluta rundvandringen här. Nu var klockan 12.30 och vi var hungriga.
Det blev lunch på Shanghai Slim.
Efter lunchen passade Pirkko på att bekanta sig med en stilig gentleman och vi kikade runt lite på det trevliga området.
Vi kom fram till att vi inte alls var så långt ifrån ytterligare ett trevligt Lilongområde, Tianzifang, vid Taikang Lu. Detta området har gjorts till ett område med småbutiker och restauranger. En helt annan stil än Sinan Mansion och Xintiandi. Inte lika fint kanske, men mycket charmigare.
Det fick bli en kopp kaffe innan vi lämnade detta mysiga området.
Nu tog vi en taxi till Antikmarknaden på Dongtai Lu. En liten titt kunde vi ju ta innan vi tog en taxi hem igen. Det blev både Antikmarknaden, "Fish and Bird Market", Barnklädesmarknaden och så gick vi hem.
.....men det var inte jag som drev på, det var Pirkko!
Man ser ju så mycket roligt på vägen!
När vi gick från Antikmarknaden gick vi igenom Huaihai Park på Pu'An Lu. Vi korsade Huaihai Lu och så var vi ju precis vid Barnklädesmarknaden. Då måste vi ju bara titta in!
Sen tog vi en liten titt på kartan och Pirkko o Hans tyckte att vi lika gärna kunde gå hem också.
Det blev middag hemma idag också....men nu vardet Hans som stod för matlagningen.
Mycket gott!

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